Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Buying Reclaimed Wood Beams

Buying Reclaimed Wood Beams

Everybody loves the look of the rustic cabin with its rustic hewn beams and rustic wood paneling. Buying reclaimed wood beams for this type of building can be challenging. You will need to know a few things before you start picking through a pile of beams for your next grand project. Hopefully this article will give you a good overview of what to look for when specifying solid reclaimed wood beams for your application.

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Reclaimed Redwood Beams

The most common species available for large beams are Douglas Fir, Heart Pine, Redwood and Oak. There are a few other types of wood that can make a good sized beams but these are the most common varieties. The reason you see these varieties most commonly is that the species of these trees are able to grow to tremendous sizes. The tallest and widest tree in the world is the California Redwood but unfortunately it was over harvested one hundred years ago and much of the big beams are rare these days. The Heart Pine suffered the same fate as the Redwood and is not grown to a large size anymore.  The most common species to see large format beams in is Douglas Fir. This woos has been commercially harvested, replanted and has a wider range than the Redwood, so there is more opportunity to harvest large trees that will yield a beam of substantial size.

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Fresh Sawn Beam

There are several textures and looks you can specify for your next beam project. The most common texture and look for structural applications is Fresh Sawn. This is the easiest to achieve and will allow for the greatest flexibility. In this process, a larger beam is sawn down into a common size that will be uniform in size and texture. One of the problems with old reclaimed beams is that the mills that originally cut the beams were inaccurate with their cutting and the width and thickness could vary by half an inch in either direction. You also have shrinkage and warping to contend with if the beam was sawn and installed while it was green. By cutting an old beam down to size, you can even out the imperfections in size and end up with a consistent, uniform, straight beam.

Reclaimed-Wood-Beam-Texture-300x200 Buying Reclaimed Wood BeamsThe reclaimed “as-is” look of the old rustic face is a popular look.  It has its challenges though because of the reasons I outlined above. The sizes can vary along with several other factors. The beams could have been painted at one time, hiding that gorgeous old rough cut patina. That paint could also be lead based which will require special handling by an expert.  We won’t even accept beams with paint on them. As-is patina on beams can have several types of blade marks on them.  The most common type of blade mark was from a band mill. It will leave straight marks across the face of the beam. The most desired look on the face of an old beam comes from a circular saw blade. Early mills used this circular blade technology because it was the easiest way to mill. Some of the circular saw blades stood over 8 feet tall.  Now that is a big blade!
Hand hewn beams are gorgeous but becoming more rare these days. The earliest way of making a square beam was to take a tool called an adze and start hacking away at one side of a log until it was square. The miller would then flip the log and repeat until he had a square.  This tool left a tell tale signature marking similar to an axe. This characteristic patina and is a great conversation starter. There is no modern automated tool that can duplicate the look of an old hand hewn beam. Since the milling on these beams is imperfect and typically on smaller beam sizes, we mostly see this type of beam being used for mantles above fire places, not for structural uses.

Man made surface treatments can be added to the surface to your beam to give it a certain look. Some of these treatments include brushing, sand blasting and various staining treatments.  Brushing the face of the beam with a wire or nylon brush is down with a hand held machine. This is labor intensive but will eliminate most of the splinters and catches on the woods surface.  It creates a silky smooth surface to the wood.  Sand blasting is usually done when a building is undergoing a renovation and is vacant.  High pressure air us used to propel grains of sand through a hose pointed at the beams. This is typically done to strip old paint very quickly and restore the beam to its old look.  Remember to always have the paint tested for lead before having this treatment done as it requires an expert to do this.  There are also various types of staining that can be done to achieve the desired look you want.  Various stain colors and make a fresh sawn beam look old instead of waiting for years while Mother Nature does her work to create that type of patina naturally. We have the ability to do that process overnight.

Beams that need to have a structural rating on them for load bearing must be certified by a third party vendor. Most reclaimed wood companies do not offer this service as it is highly specialized. All of the beams that we sell are not certified for any specific fitness of use.

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Reclaimed Wood Beam Grade Boxed Heart

There are several grades to beams that are used for different tasks. Depending on where the beam was cut from the tree, it can have heart wood in it, or not. The best grade of beam does not contain heart wood and is called Free of Heart Center or FOHC for short.  Most beams are cut the traditional way and carry the designation of being called Box Heart.  This is because the beams center is the middle of the tree and contains the entire heart of the tree.  This is the easiest and cheapest way of making beams. The cost of FOHC is much more than a typical Box Heart grade. We use FOHC for our commercial wood table tops for restaurants. FOHC wood is less prone to cracking or warping because it has no heart wood in it

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Reclaimed Wood Beam FOHC Grade

Depending on the length of the beam and if it will fit into our kiln, we recommend to our customers that the beam be heat treated before milling. By putting the beam through the kiln, we can remove some of the moisture content so it is less prone to movement once installed and most importantly the kiln cycle will kill any bugs living within the wood.  Power post beetles are tiny creatures that like to live in old beams that need to be eliminated. Another thing the kiln will do is solidify any old sap pockets that might be present within the old beam.

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Large Reclaimed Wood Beam Inventory

We have access to over 2 million board feet of Douglas fir beams is a variety of sizes, patina, lengths and grades. Typical lead times for as-is beams is 4 weeks. If you need the beams to be kiln dried and milled, the time line can extend from there.  Costs on reclaimed wood beams can always be shocking at first. The main reason the costs are so high on a beam is the amount of wood contained within the beam. A typical 12” x 12” beam that is 16 feet long has over 192 board feet of lumber in it.  Since we charge by the board foot for our beams, this can add up quickly. A typical price for a board foot of 12×12 can range from $5.00/ bf to $10.00/ bf for FOHC grade depending on the dimensions you need.

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Acclimation of wood paneling and flooring | How & Why

Why acclimate wood before installation?

Wood acclimation is a very important step in preparing for many years of beautify wood installations. Most people think of wood paneling and flooring as static, never moving or changing shape. The truth is that wood is hygroscopic, meaning that it is always either taking in moisture from the air or giving it back. This exchange mainly happens with seasonal changes. When wood gives up moisture, it shrinks and when it takes on moisture in a humid environment, it expands.  Even though these contractions are very small, they must be taken into account when installing wood flooring or paneling into your home.  If you fail to acclimate your wood properly, you can end up with unsightly gaps at the edges of your boards, or the wood can expand so much that it can create warping and wood failure.

The Process of Acclimation

First, ensure that the building is enclosed and maintained at normal living conditions for temperature and humidity. It does no good to acclimate flooring to interior conditions that are too moist or too dry, or in any way significantly outside the range of conditions likely to be found in the building after the flooring or paneling is installed.

Where building codes allow, permanent heating and/or air-conditioning systems should be operating at least five days preceding installation to promote proper acclimation. Where building codes do not allow for operation of the permanent system, acclimation of the flooring must be completed with the temperature and humidity maintained at or near normal living conditions, which generally fall between 60° to 80° Fahrenheit and at the average yearly relative humidity for the area.

If it is not possible for the permanent heating and/or air-conditioning system to be operating before, during and after installation, a temporary heating and dehumidification system using electric heating units, dehumidifiers and industrial fans can enable the installation to proceed until the permanent heating and/or air-conditioning system is operating.

Flooring-Acclimation-300x210 Acclimation of wood paneling and flooring | How & WhyUpon delivery, check the moisture content with a moisture meter to establish a baseline for required acclimation. If you don’t have a moisture meter, acclimate your wood flooring or paneling at least 5 days. Acclimation can be facilitated by breaking the floor units into small lots and/or opening the packaging. A common practice is to stack the flooring or paneling with ¾-inch to 1-inch sticks between each layer of flooring to allow air circulation on all sides of all boards like the picture.

Wood flooring is a hygroscopic material subject to dimensional change as a result of variations in moisture, temperature and humidity in the surrounding environment. That has led to increasing awareness of the need to properly acclimate wood flooring before installation. Wood flooring and paneling need to reach a moisture content level in equilibrium with the surrounding environment in which it will be installed, at or near normal living conditions. Always account for time of year and geographic location.

Not properly acclimating wood flooring may cause excessive expansion, shrinkage, dimensional distortion or structural damage. Most wood flooring and paneling failures can be traced back to improper acclimation.

The point of acclimating wood flooring before installation is to allow the moisture content of the wood to adjust to the installation site’s normal living conditions; that is, the temperature, humidity conditions and moisture content that will typically be experienced once the structure is occupied.

For site-finished wood flooring, after installation and before sanding and finishing, allow the flooring to acclimate to the controlled environment, and to stabilize for a period of time. The worst-case scenario is one in which wood flooring is stored at the jobsite in an uncontrolled environment — especially one that is subject to excessive moisture and humidity conditions. Garages, basements and exterior patios, for example, are not acceptable areas to store wood flooring.

As a general rule, with geographic exceptions, wood flooring will perform best when the interior environment is controlled to stay within a relative humidity range of 30 to 50 percent and a temperature range of 60° to 80° Fahrenheit..

For a more lengthy and technical guide to installing and acclimation of wood flooring and paneling, click on this link to the NWFA-Installation-Guidelines.

 

 

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source https://viridianwood.com/acclimation-of-wood-paneling-and-flooring/

Redwood and Cedar Siding

Nothing matches the timeless beauty of Redwood and Cedar Siding.  Most modern architecture incorporates some element of wood in its design. ...